Monthly Archives: April 2012

4/26/2012 Brew

Random Brew Recipe:  67g coffee / 1 kg water, 3 minute brew time.

Brew Method: Aeropress
Actual Recipe: 14g coffee, 200g water at 201F
Coffee: Ecuador Loja from Tonx Coffee

Notes notes notes: Thanks to Mark (@marcushundley) for sharing his Tonx!

Huge nose on this coffee, both through the grinder and in the cup. Through the grinder it was just a sweet berry, in the cup it was distinctly that thick, sweet smell of a cherry cordial. The long brew time in the Aeropress pushed it over the edge, but it still had heavy, dripping chocolate-covered cherry body and flavor. A little tart berry in the finish – I’m excited to try this coffee again with brew parameters a little closer to previous outstanding Aeropress brews.

I am very curious how this would pull as an espresso – it has the kind of flavor that is not just enjoyable, but armed with the kind of clarity and distinct nameable notes that make me immediately think of what a competition routine would look like using this bean. Probably a presentation on Ecuador and the Tonx model, direct-to-consumer coffee evolution…

I’d give it an 8/10.

Re: A Linen Napkin

James Hoffmann has a post up about a recent experience at Blue Bottle in NYC, in which he talks a little about signifiers.

He’s right; it can really come down to little things when we’re trying to create things that will indicate to our customers that we are going to show them something unusual, something special and something nice. It’s worth noting, though, that there is still a much larger context at work, here. A linen napkin alone does not change expectations; it is simply the cherry on top of a beautiful buildout, a long-term local branding strategy, an online marketing program, a continued program of excellent coffee, etc etc.

We definitely need to be better about advancing this kind of thing; linen napkins count. A glass of water with espresso counts. But these are little things; they won’t outweigh a robotic staff in paper hats or a neglected training program. But if you have a well-trained, service oriented staff serving amazing coffee with passion and humility, a nice napkin or a glass of water might be the tipping point that makes your customers start to notice that you really are a little different.

4/25/2012 Brew

Random Brew Recipe:  32g coffee / 1 kg water, 2 minute brew time.

Brew Method: French Press
Actual Recipe: 16g coffee, 500g water at 198F
Coffee: Honduras Las Flores from New Harvest Coffee Roasters

Notes notes notes: 16g is a woefully tiny amount of ground coffee in a 500mL french press. Even grinding quite fine results in a brew that just looks strange: muddy and silty as you’d expect a finely-ground french press cup, but quite light, more tan than brown. I was not looking forward to this cup.

Using a french press helped to add a little body, but the flavor itself is practically missing. It’s a hot cup of something – not water, certainly, but in a blind tasting I don’t know that I’d identify it as coffee, either. It’s present in the mouth but without any kind of acidity or actual flavor to associate with the heft. It isn’t offensive or hard to drink, but it isn’t interesting  - it isn’t much of ANYthing, really.

I’d give it an 3/10. I don’t think this recipe would work with any coffee.

4/24/2012 Brew

Random Brew Recipe:  84g coffee / 1 kg water, 2 minute brew time.

Brew Method: Chemex
Actual Recipe: 42g coffee, 500g water at 201F
Coffee: Honduras Las Flores from New Harvest Coffee Roasters

Notes notes notes: Trying to get 500g of water through 42g of coffee takes the kind of rapidity that does not usually show itself with the slow-brew enthusiast. I will admit; the water level in my Chemex was, at times, uncomfortably high.

I really do like this coffee an awful lot. These higher-than-usual doses tend to go either one way or the other, and in an effort to (selfishly) create a more enjoyable cup, I coarsened the grind quite a bit – as well as upping the temperature just a touch, in search of a little more brightness, a bit more of the sweet aroma that was so alluring in the last session. The grinder smelled just as sweet this time – and the brew itself was overly fragrant, reminiscent of ripe blackberries.

The body is pleasant, hearty but not oily, which I would have expected with this dosage. It’s jammy and juicy, but not anywhere near the winey-fermenty notes you sometimes get with these really fruity-heavy coffees. The finish is quick and soft, belying the (flagrant!) underextraction. But, it’s a really pleasant cup.

In a brew method with a less aggressive filtration, I imagine this brew would not have been as nice. Using a Kone or French Press would have probably yielded an intensely oily body, which is a huge turn-off for me. I have my suspicions about the idea that certain coffees being better with certain brew methods – but I definitely think that different brew recipes lend themselves better or worse to certain brew methods.

I’d give it an 8/10. Not as good as a straight 60g/L for 4:00, but much more aromatic and still a nice cup.

Danny Meyer Interview

Danny Meyer, New York Restaurateur and  a man for whom I have great respect (his book, Setting the Table, changed the way I think about service), was on Charlie Rose. Here’s the interview:

Danny Meyer on Charlie Rose

If you work in hospitality, this is worth your time. If you want to start at the good stuff, it begins around 6:00. He talks about restaurants, but much of it applies to coffee and coffee houses as well. It’s not exactly hard-hitting journalism, but I enjoyed it. Some thoughts:

~8:10: “A restaurant is like a baseball glove … the people who work in our restaurants, and the people who dine in our restaurants, and the communities that surround our restaurants, are what give the glove its shape. All I do is do the stitching.”
 …  A coffee shop, a cafe, an espresso bar – if it is empty, it isn’t anything yet. Our places of business are defined by their function and their population. It is the employees and the customers that shape a place. You can choose your buildout to exacting specifications, but all you can do is provide a canvas upon which your employees paint. It’s so difficult for me to see these absolutely beautiful spaces with expensive and lovely equipment manned by folks who either don’t care or haven’t been taught to utilize their care into an excellent product. Don’t forget to invest in your staff!

~9:40: “Hospitality is a completely different thing from service. Hospitality is how we make you feel, service is what we do, to deliver the product.”
… I’ve touched on this a little in the past. ‘Service’ has become such a buzzword that we don’t even know what we’re talking about most of the time. This idea of hospitality is really appealing to me; we can be hospitable before we even speak to someone, even before their order is placed. A clean space, a friendly staff, a sensible noise level – these things are hospitality, and they are just as important as the service. I am starting to lean toward the idea that context and hospitality are even more important than the interaction itself. This is something I need to think on, but I would suggest that without a good foundation of context and hospitality, good service is very, very difficult, if not impossible. Anyone who has cared about coffee but worked at a place where the ownership did not care about coffee can commiserate here.

~16:53: “A great burger depends on what kind of mood you’re in.”
… This I really appreciate! It rings true with coffee, and is something we could be better about providing our customers. I know that sometimes even with all of the brewing devices in my kitchen, I still just want to hit a drive-thru on my way out of town. I think that Colin Harmon and 3FE do a great job with this, with the Tasting v. Drinking menus. Even coffee pros just want a hot cup of coffee they don’t have to think about – at least sometimes!

(also, not for nothing, I cracked up when Danny Meyer mentions that he prefers his burgers medium rare, and Charlie Rose murmurs kind of quietly, “Me too.”)

~20:00: “We’re trying to make it a restaurant for its neighbors.”
 I like the idea of a shop being for its community. It’s another, larger layer of this idea of context; does your shop fit? Are you forcing it to fit? Or is it natural, an obvious part of the where-ness of the place?  

4/19/2012 Brew

Random Brew Recipe:  76g coffee / 1 kg water, 5 minute brew time.

Brew Method: French Press
Actual Recipe: 38g coffee, 500g water at 198F
Coffee: Honduras Las Flores from New Harvest Coffee Roasters

Notes notes notes: This coffee is good. Really, really good. New Harvest was nice enough to give the Providence Coffee Society a bag to use at an event today, so I figured I would draw out of it for the RBR. As a non-tasting note, New Harvest has been bringing in a lot of new and interesting microlots lately, so that’s exciting!

Flores has that aroma that always makes me think about cupping – that creamy, sweet berry smell you sometimes find during the dry aroma that immediately makes you look forward to that set of cups? It’s got it. Even with the little updose and the longish brew time, the subtleties and sweetness in the cup are very promising. It’s a bit muddy, and I think the choice of Chemex for the event today will produce a much more compelling cup – but even this, via French Press, has me very excited to try this coffee later today! Sweet and round and a bit punchy toward the end without edging into sourness. Lovely!

I’d give this coffee a 8/10.

If you’re in Providence today, the Providence Coffee Society has a booth at the JWU mock trade show, come by!

4/10/2012 Brew

Random Brew Recipe:  89g coffee / 1 kg water, 4 minute brew time.

Brew Method: Aeropress
Actual Recipe: 18g coffee, 200g water at 198F
Coffee: Seven Stars Bakery Espresso Blend from New Harvest Coffee Roasters

Notes notes notes: Let me begin by saying I did not alter the grind setting for this coffee from my usual Aeropress setting. If you are familiar with the Aeropress, you probably have a scrunched-up face right now. This reaction is appropriate, and was my reaction as well.

Four minutes plus a serious brew time with the Aeropress made our espresso, which is usually sweet and full-bodied, with a little berry hanging around the background, into a serious sour-face pucker. It was the kind of sour that made the edges of my tongue hurt. It was oily and heavy and is definitely not in the running to become a regular Aeropress application.

I’d give it a 2/10. Not my favorite.

Service Questions

This post was inspired by recent Twitter conversations with other local coffee professionals. The catalyst was this tweet, linking to an interview on Eater.com;

If you haven’t read the interview, definitely do!

Out of the Twitter conversation came some questions that stick with me;

- Is there some responsibility to be placed on a customer during a service interaction? Put another way, is it possible for an interaction in a hospitality situation to go poorly, and the fault lies squarely on the customer? Do we (as coffee professionals) need customers to be in a certain mindset for our hospitality to take root? If so, what does that say about our industry?

- What does it mean to serve a customer? Does it mean to provide them exactly what they want, even if you dislike it? Does it mean to exercise expertise and provide them the best thing you can, even if their (perhaps uninformed) desires point elsewhere? How is it good service to sell something you’re not proud of? How is it good service to deny a customer’s desires? Where do good service and business acumen intersect?

- Do we put too much weight on the actual, personal interaction when we think about service? How positive does an interaction have to be to overcome a bad context? A dirty store? Does lovely latte art outweigh a sloppy barista?

 

 

4/3/2012 Brew

Random Brew Recipe:  53g coffee / 1 kg water, 6 minute brew time.

Brew Method: French Press
Actual Recipe: 53g coffee, 1 kg water at 202F
Coffee: Costa Rica Tarrazu, in-house fluid air bed roasted (aka popcorn popper)

Notes notes notes: Unimpressive! The IHFABR is challenging. Could it be the air flow? The quantity of green coffee? The open window? The closed window? It is just not well roasted coffee, and as such the brew can only be ok. I suspect that it’s time to crack open the IHFABR and bypass the thermostat – because usually whencoffee isn’t all it could be, side-stepping a safety feature is the first move.

If this is my final entry, know I died as I lived – dangerously.

It’s a bit nutty, a little cocoa at the finish, but mostly it tastes bready and vegetal. Definitely under-roasted. The brew recipe itself does not seem to have provided any negative affects – which is a little surprising, given the 50% longer brew time than I’d usually use. My brew times have been a little long lately from the RBG, and I’ve been surprised at how little negative impact it has been having. Perhaps I’ve been speeding through brews that just needed a little more time to open up.

I’d give it a 5/10. Tastes of too-light a roast and shame. The recipe would be closer to 7/10 with better coffee, I suspect.

4/2/2012 Brew

Random Brew Recipe:  100g coffee / 1 kg water, 3 minute brew time.

Brew Method: Aeropress
Actual Recipe: 20g coffee, 200g water at 198F
Coffee: Crema Coffee  El Salvador Finca Suiza

Notes notes notes: WHOA 100g per kg! We’re into triple digit doses, folks.

This is a big big dose and a longer brew time than I’d usually go for with the Aeropress – but the Aeropress is a mystery, and its ways can be strange and interesting. Huge thanks to our barista Kate who brought this coffee back from her recent tour, from a shop called Crema (a “brewtique,” continuing coffee’s long love affair with punnery), down in Nashville.

First, even with kind of out-there parameters, this coffee is solid. I am excited to try it again closer to where I think it will shine, but even at almost twice the coffee I’d usually use, this was no joke. It was the kind of coffee that had folks curious – in a good way – as the aroma hung around the grinder. Monster citrus right up front, toeing that sour line but not quite crossing it. It had the kind of quick, aggressive body I associate with underextraction, but it still pulled it off. I finished the cup. It was a really, really nice brew, hoenstly more enjoyable than I anticipated when I pulled up the RBG.

If nothing else, this random brew has proved 1.) Nashville is no joke and 2.) Good coffees are good even when brewed out of spec – if there even is a spec! I can’t wait to try it tomorrow.

I’d give it a 9/10.

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